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European Tour - Dublin |
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The wipers were still running and there was a bitterly cold wind blowing when we drove onto the ferry at Hollyhead, the north-western tip of Wales, bound for Dublin "Not exactly nice weather out there is it... looks like rough crossing", I said. "Oh not at all, it'll be fine once we get outside", said one of the two men dressed in white overalls smudged with black who stepped into the elevator at the car deck level with me. As I started to smile upon hearing the lovely lilt of an Irish voice for the first time on this trip, the other Engineer turned with a droll look at his mate and said, "You're a great kidder Mike." The
crossing of the Irish Sea takes about 31/2 hours on an average
(nasty) day. It took a bit more than 4 hours this time.
The sea reminded me of a rough day in Johnstone Strait,
with maybe 3 metre waves cresting white with blowing spray,
our vessel pitching and rolling and occasionally shuddering
with the impact of an especially big one. The crew had laid
out two bags on each table, and there was an ugly smell
in the bathroom. Perversely perhaps, I actually enjoy this
kind of ocean, and after an hour, when the sky lightened
and the sun came out, it was altogether quite lovely. As
we drove off the ferry into Dublin the sun was setting orange
amidst thinly scattered puffy white clouds, making us feel
entirely hopeful about the day to come. Half an hour later,
directed by Brendan Price (of the Irish Seal Sanctuary)
via mobile phone, our Big Pink Bus pulled into our digs
for the night. No garbage dump this time. We drove through
the splendid 120 hectare grounds of the old Guinness estate,
now a park, and wheeled into the Stables courtyard, now
the Parks Works HQ of the Corporation of Dublin. Nice welcome.
Bigger than most mansions, the Guinness Stables was impressive
even in the half light, with its red brick walls and tall
tower silhouetted against the darkening sky. Mick, our host,
showed us the shower & toilets, gave us a key to the
big wrought iron gates, and directed us to Dollymount House,
five minutes walk away, for maybe food, definitely beer.
What is is about 'five minutes away' walks? The last one,
in London, took fifteen, I swear this one was even longer,
me trudging along well behind the others, heavy briefcase
in hand, just in case I can connect (to my email). The Dollymount
was a great introduction to Ireland. About done in after
the walk, I rested on a cushioned bench while Martina ordered
a round of pints and Klaus and Uli scouted the spacious
room looking for a spot to perch a dozen weary bodies. Nearby
me, sat a tiny old man with a long white beard. He was leaning
forward onto the table, clutching an almost empty pint glass
of draft Guinness within his two hands. Another pint, with
a full inch of white froth at the top, waited alongside.
The old fellow was engaged in an intense conversation with
another man seated across from him. I tried to tune in,
but I couldn't understand a word that was being said. Soon,
we were cozily seated in a far corner with Lile ('Leela')
and John, Lisa and Mario, and Paddy. These kind folk, some
of our hosts, I could understand perfectly. I don't know
what it is about Irish voices, but I just love listening
to them. And I loved what these bright, cheerful, smiling
people had to say. Lile is an elementary school teacher.
All her kids are totally into Corky and know every detail
of her story... and they're no puppets either. A few nights
ago they'd seen Jay Leno doing something idiotic on his
Late Night show... pretending to give Shamu orders while
a Sea World orca performed the usual silly tricks on a big
tv screen. The kids had been outraged, and next day they
insisted (without a word from an adult) on writing letters
to Jay Leno, telling him what they thought about his cheap
stunt... that Shamu is a stage name, that one of Sea World's
orca captives is Corky, that she has a family in the ocean,
and that she needs to be home with her mum. Probably by
now, 30 very direct letters from young Irish kids have landed
on Jay Leno's desk. I guess we don't need to hold our breath
waiting to hear if he responds, but who knows, he just might...
and he might even think first. Anyway, it was great to meet
some of Corky's Irish allies at last, and to understand
something of the depth of feeling the kids of Ireland have
for Corky, and the commitment they have to seeing her free.
The day to come was to prove these facts... beyond any shadow
of doubt. OUR
LAST DAY dawned clear, and cold. There wasn't a cloud to
be seen in the morning sky, and when the sun rose it didn't
even take the edge off the chill air. All things considered...
OK! We drove out of the Stables before the workers arrived
for their day, and relaxed in the park while we waited for
a call to confirm my interview on a morning talk radio show.
The taxi driver who took me into town was a friendly chatty
man of 50 named Joe Traynor. He'd seen Jay Leno's idiocy
too... just happened to be watching the Tonight Show, though
he rarely does so... and he enjoyed the story of the kids
who'd fired off letters in response. "The thing about
kids is they tell you straight what's on their mind; when
you get older you think too much about how people are going
to take what you say", he says, and I agree. We had
a few good laughs about Budweiser & real beer before
he dropped me off at Radio Ireland, encouraging me with
how big the audience of the Pat Kenny Show is... just about
everyone in Ireland with a radio should be listening. It
turned out that Tuesday was a busy morning on the show,
with heated political stuff and a lengthy debate between
a geneticist and a preacher about proof of Evolution claimed
in a newly published study. In between, there was an unexpected
conversation with a billiards champion that took up more
time. In the end, my scheduled 12 minutes on air became
the last 5 minutes of the show. Pat Kenny was great, keeping
one eye on the second hand while he read the promo for our
event on the beach that afternoon, and then took me rapidly
through Corky's story, the campaign to free her, the GREAT
BANNER, and the enthusiasm of Irish kids for Corky. He even
got asked me about our BUD'S OUT UNTIL CORKY'S OUT slogan,
giving me an opportunity to mention the terrible beer that
Sea World's owner makes, and our campaign to get people
to stop drinking it until Corky makes it home again. Altogether,
it was a pretty nice way to start the day. Brendan, who'd
been listening, was apparently very pleased with what Pat
Kenny had done for Corky in a few short minutes. On the
ride back to the BPB, another cheerful taxi driver offered
his opinion that it shouldn't take much to get Irish people
to stop drinking Budweiser beer to help Corky. I told him
the story my encounter with a Budweiser drinker on the Channel
ferry coming across from Calais. I'd happened to walk up
to the bar to order a pint of draft Heineken and stopped
alongside a thirtyish fellow waiting for his order. Of course,
it was a bottle of Budweiser. The bartender turned away
to make change. I couldn't help myself. "Excuse me,
would you mind telling me why you ordered that beer?"
I asked. "Well, I don't know really", he said,
"Why do you ask?" I explained. "Well, in
the first place it's one of the world's worst beers, and
in the second place the company that makes it kills whales."
He looked a bit shocked, so I said "I'm sorry if I've
just spoiled your drink, but I couldn't help myself."
"Oh it's ok", he says. "Thanks. I'll tell
my mates about it too." And he wandered off. My Dublin
taxi driver thought this was great, and I suspect he'll
pass it on as well. Back at the BPB, we headed for the beach in glorious sunshine, though there were now some darkish clouds in the sky as well. After a slow, torturous, drive along a tiny roadway that ran beside a golf course (and more admiration for Pete's driving skills) we arrived at our spot and drove out onto the edge of the beach. The long expanse of sand that is Dollymound beach stretched into the distance. GREAT. We stepped out into a cool, brisk breeze coming off the land, and started unloading. This time, we were determined to put out every section of CORKY'S FREEDOM BANNER. I can tell you, there's a LOT of cloth in that FABULOUS work of kids' art. In Zurich I'd had a chance to stroll around a lot of it, admiring all kinds of patches I'd never seen before. This time, I wanted to see it ALL. So we hauled everything we'd been using out of the BPB, stripping the wooden poles off because the kids wanted to hold the BANNER in their hands. Then we opened the last boxes that had been stored in the trailer. One by one we piled each section up, with an end on top, so they would be easy to pick up and carry when the kids arrived. Soon, a big area of sand beside the BPB was full of mounds of cloth, READY in plenty of time for the kids. Pete busied himself as usual, draping the top level of the BPB with CORKY'S GREAT BANNER. Our BPB looked SPLENDID, standing tall against the white sand and blue sky. The first bus arrived... big kids from a high school. We handed out red FREE CORKY! hats and white FREE CORKY! t-shirts and asked them to help organise the littler kids as they arrived. Niki's phone rang. It was another Dublin radio station wanting to do a live interview with me. Another plug for our event and for Corky. GREAT. Another hit on BUDWEISER, THE WORLD'S WORST BEER ("You won't have too much trouble convincing people in Ireland about that", said the host after he'd stopped chuckling). GREAT. Niki's phone rang again. This time it was a radio station in Brussels wanting to know what was happening in Dublin. Another blow struck for Corky's freedom. GREAT. The first bus loads of little kids arrived, and soon there was a sea of red FREE CORKY! hats milling about. We wanted to wait longer though, until there were enough kids present (& adults too) to pick up every section and carry the whole GREAT BANNER at once down along the beach. To fill the time, Niki asked me to speak to the kids through a megaphone. Sure, I agreed, but I needed a couple of minutes to finish fussing with a few last bits of BANNER. As I explained that job to a newly arrived adult, I felt the wind pick up a notch, and I LOOKED UP AT THE SKY. We
were still bathed in bright sunshine, but coming towards
us, FAST, was the biggest blackest meanest looking cloud
I've seen in a long time. OOPS. If only we'd done this in
the morning, I thought, instantly feeling more than a little
dismayed. Within about a minute the first big, cold, spots
of rain hit hard, carried by a fierce wind which was picking
up speed fast. Then THE SKY HURLED HAIL at us, and as many
kids as could scurried into the shelter of the BPB or crowded
against its lee side. Some of them were protected by our
great inflated Orca for a bit, but we soon realised she
needed deflating, lest she fly away. Pete did that. A quick
debate ensued. WHAT TO DO? This time I was for holding fast
and toughing the squall out, come what may, but wiser heads
(pointing out how heavy a really wet BANNER section would
be to little kids) prevailed, and we quickly picked up our
neatly arranged piles of cloth and tossed them onto ONE
GREAT PILE. I hunted down the megaphone and enticed the
kids into gathering around me for a chat about orcas and
Corky. It was still hailing hard. I stood surrounded by
a sea of red peaked caps. The wearers were all so much smaller
than me that it felt a bit like being up on that soapbox
in Hyde Park a couple of days earlier. But this audience
was much, much better. After a few minutes, it stopped hailing.
A short time after, the sky was bright blue again and we
stood in sunshine as I answered questions, all of them pertinent
and perceptive. Eventually, most of my audience drifted
away. I found out later than one of the most persistent
questioners had been a girl who'd played the role of August
Busch in a school play about Corky's life. Tough job. Tough
kid. OK. We
decided to GO FOR IT with the kids on hand... maybe 100
by then. Niki gave them a short speech of thanks and Martina
gave them instructions. They quickly organised themselves
into groups of five. Just as quickly, we piled sections
of the BANNER into waiting arms that trundled off onto the
beach. More kids and adults were arriving in little groups
all the time, then someone called out "Here comes another
hundred and fifty", and I knew WE COULD DO IT. The
whole scene suddenly became AMAZING. I stopped helping hand
out sections and went off to watch the scene & take
photos. The beach was alive with groups of kids holding
on to sections of THE GREAT BANNER TO FREE CORKY! Each one,
held onto firmly by five kids, was filled with the wind
like a great kite wanting to fly away. And, back lit by
the bright sun, each one was ablaze with colours. CORKY'S
GREAT BANNER WAS ALIVE, weaving and dancing down the beach.
It was altogether an INCREDIBLE scene, MOVING and SPECTACULAR,
with sections of BANNER already starting to disappear along
the distant length of the beach, and the kids all having
FUN. Beyond, lay the sea... and the way to FREEDOM FOR CORKY. If
I'd stopped to think about what it all meant, and what the
kids of Ireland were doing for Corky in that moment, I'd
have probably found my cheeks suddenly wet. But it wasn't
a time for thought, just for FEELING GREAT... and experiencing
the GREAT moment. Besides, the wind was soon picking up
again, and it became clear that some of the kids were having
trouble controlling their sections. We stopped handing out
new sections just before the great pile was empty, and directed
newcomers into action as reinforcements. I kept glancing
at the sky, hoping against hope that things would stay as
they were. But the next OMINOUS BLACK MASS came rushing
towards us. What followed was an UNBELIEVABLE scene, with
everyone trying to stay the ground, and hanging on to CORKY'S
GREAT BANNER for dear life. Soon, Nature took control and
the landscape became flashes of events happening too fast
to track... whole sections of the BANNER careening headlong
towards the ocean, with little kids digging their heels
in, trying to stop it before it reached the water... more
little kids literally lifted off their feet, like Mary Poppins,
all the while clinging fast for Corky.... a lone adult standing
still in the middle of a section, one foot firmly planted
ahead of the other, a fiercely determined expression on
his face, with the BANNER flying and flapping around him,
and his gang of little helpers running about, desperately
trying to regain control of the ends. The rain began again.
Then more hail struck with fury. Sections of CORKY'S GREAT
BANNER were being dragged onto wet beach and becoming soaked.
A sudden gust grabbed my FREE CORKY! hat and it flew off
through the air to join a flock of others tumbling over
the sand towards the sea. I found myself beside the Hanson
Island section of the BANNER. It was dragging the five kids
holding it towards the sea. I fought beside them, digging
my heels into the sand, to little avail. We tried to head
it into the wind, but the wind was too strong. Then came
the order to bring the BANNER back in. Bit by bit, CORKY'S
GREAT FREEDOM BANNER came home to the BPB, hustled along
by groups of kids... all of them with hair flying and faces
pink from exertion and the stinging hail. I headed off to
gather up the red specks that littered the beach near the
water line. A lump of debris caught my eye and I stooped
to pick it up. It was a tiny piece of CORKY'S BANNER, a
square of white silk or nylon that had perhaps once been
a handkerchief. I held it aloft by the corners. It flapped,
snapping in the wind, shaking the sand loose. Through it,
against the dark sky, I could see a beautiful black and
white orca that some unknown child had painted on it, and,
embroidered in yellow, the words BORN TO BE FREE. I like
signs that come from out of nowhere I know about, and I
tell you, I nearly lost it about then. But soon I was trying
to hang onto a dozen red FREE CORKY! hats bundled in my
arms... as was someone else who'd started from the other
end... and I was trudging back up the beach towards the
BPB. I was suddenly aware that my left thumb was in agony
from the cold and my clothes were soaked. But my heart was
singing and I felt GREAT. It
wasn't too long before the wind began to calm down again,
and the sky quickly became lighter. It seemed possible the
day might get bright again, but by then much of he BANNER
was wet, and heavy. There was no point, really, in trying
to carry on further. Besides, WE HAD DONE IT. Everyone,
kids and adults alike, were by now exhausted... and, I'm
sure, EXHILARATED. Quite quickly, almost all the kids left
the wintry scene, in buses and cars, with their teachers
and parents. Then came the unhappy news that some of the
children had been injured. They were in the lower lounge
of the BPB. Three girls. The littlest one, obviously in
pain, was holding her wrist. It looked sprained... no doubt
from trying too hard to stop the BANNER from flying away.
The other two girls had been knocked flat and had hit their
heads hard on the beach. All were being very brave. Soon,
they were taken off to hospital. (It was a big relief to
hear later that all three were ok. It probably helped that,
by chance if such exists, two of the injured girls were
in pictures of the event that were carried prominantly by
both major Dublin newspapers the day afer.) The scene changed again, becoming a mop up operation with the sun shining bright again. A heavy layer of sand was brushed carefully of the now deflated orcas. I was worried about damage to the BANNER, and, because of the sun and the wind, thought we might lay some of the wet sections out on the grassy sand dunes. Brendan reassured me... the BANNER had been a lot wetter the last time it came to Dublin, and it had dried out fine. So we gathered all the sections up and loaded them into the BPB. About the time we were finishing this job, the sky started to darken quickly again and another BLACK cloud rushed at us. As Pete finished cutting the last bits of string holding CORKY'S GREAT BANNER to the BPB, and Anna & Christina & I struggled to bring it in, the first bits of a new round of hail hit. As quickly as could be, everyone was inside the BPB, gazing out, mouths open, as the landscape turned winter white. We may as well have been in the Arctic. Hmmm. VERY COLD KIDS FOR CORKY. Later,
after dinner in a loud restaurant decorated in a motorcycle
theme (I'm not competely sure we intended to be there but
the food was fine), I found myself in a cosy old Irish pub
named Hughes, with Brendan and Niki & Christina, drinking
fine Irish beer and listening to Lile Ni Chonchuir and some
of her friends playing lovely Irish music and singing songs
from here and there. It felt like home. What
can I say to these dear friends, who made us so welcome,
who gave us, and who give Corky, so much hope? Poor words,
I know, but well meant..... And
what can I say about the kids of Ireland? To
be truthful, I'm a bit speechless still. Their hearts are
GOLD, their eyes are BRIGHT, their minds are CLEAR, they
CARE deeply about Corky, and they are DETERMINED to see
her free. It's a bit of a mystery to me... that in such
a far off, unlikely corner, might be found the key to Corky's
freedom. I'm quite serious about that. There was a spirit
in the air on that day in Dublin that told me, absolutely,
that Augie B III might as well quit fighting these kids
and cut his losses right now. There's
an old Irish saying Brendan told me about that may explain
it all... Without
a tongue, you have no country. Think
about it. Think
about FREEDOM. Think
about CORKY FREE! My
best to you all, cheers,
Paul. |
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OrcaLab 2001. Web design by Anna Spong: aspong@orcalab.org
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